Residential Toilet Removal and How to Installation
Editor's Note: In an effort to help plumbing contractors train their apprentices and helpers, Reeves Journal offers detailed instruction on common service and repair jobs. This section is designed so it can be removed and added to your training manual. Since each service call has a unique set of circumstances, the following are general guidelines and are not intended to cover every situation.
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As with any service call, make sure to come equipped with a mat, large towel or tarp to protect the client's floor.
Measure the wall to the toilet. Typically, the distance is 12 inches from the back wall to the closet bolts.
There are three toilet sizes: 10,12 and 14 inches. There will generally be about half an inch of play from the back of the tank to the wall. Before removing the tank, make sure to have the correct size replacement in your vehicle.
Remove the flexible or rigid supply me and then unscrew the 7/16-inch nuts. Unless you're going to install new flange bolts, it's advisable to place the nuts where they won't get lost.
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Use a razor knife to break the caulk seal. This method will help prevent pulling up the flooring with the old unit. Once the bead has been cut all the way around, try rocking the toilet back and forth. (Once the old unit is set on the mat, the bowl will most likely stick to it.) Remove the wax ring.
When it's time to take out the toilet and put it in your truck, position yourself over the unit with the bowl between your legs. Bend your knees and use your legs to help you lilt it up and walk it out. Some toilets weigh more than 65 pounds.
Change out the bolts and check the flange to see if it's cracked or broken. Typically, toilet flanges are cast iron and have a long life span. The bottom of the flange can be, at minimum, level with the floor. If it's below the floor, a new flange needs to be installed. Wax rings come in 3- or 4-inch sizes; reducers are available. Do NOT stack wax rings. Wax-free gasket kits can be used in place of wax rings.
It's advisable to purchase bolts that come with two nuts and two washers each. The key is to secure the bolts onto the flange (making them snug). Install the new wax ring.
Installing a new two-piece toilet
Make sure the product is checked out before you put it on the truck. Besides making sure you have the correct unit, inspect for any cracks or chips in the lid, howl or tank.
Pick up the new unit in the same position you removed the old one, line up the new toilet with the bolt holes over the bolts, and set it down. Rock it into place and place all your weight on it.
Contractors have a choice of installing a rigid or flexible supply line. Some contractors believe the rigid line is more durable and will last longer while others prefer the flexible type because it cuts down on installation time.
Cut the toilet bolts down far enough to pop the caps on. A "tin tim" saw is the best choice. If a saw isn't available, channel locks can be used to snap them off.
INSTALL TIME: 1.5 hours. Up to 3 hours if you have to replace the flange.
PRICE: $390 to $475 (flat rate price will vary depending on product selected and install time.)
Turn on the water supply, and check for leaks at the supply line, around the bowl, etc. Adjust the ballcock valve so the water shuts off at the line on the tank. The water fill tube has to be clipped above the overfill tube. Never stick the fill tube down inside the overfill tube to protect against siphoning.
By code, every fixture has to be caulked so no water can run underneath or behind it. Creating an even bead is the desired effect. Using your finger, smooth the bead around the bowl to seal the bowl to the floor. Caulking is an art form; the more you do it, the better you'll get at it.